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Firstly, an apology. I did come up with the title myself but it seems as though the cycling community got there first. And second.
 
And as art so often imitates life, those pesky cyclists have set the bar for how to carry off undergarments and accessories to complement their activity's standard outerwear.
 
Fittingly, one of the earliest additions to shirt, shorts and socks that were seen on the football pitch with any great regularity were the humble cycling shorts.  Since then fashion and sports science/performance technology development has led to additional items appearing - not least the cycling shorts' apparent heir, the Kinesio tape - and imaginative combinations guaranteed every weekend.
 
The most popular of these additions is surely the baselayer. So commonly worn with the short-sleeved shirt - to allow sweat to be drawn away from the skin and regulate temperature as a consequence - that its long-sleeved equivalent is considered by some to be on its way to extinction. As far as I've noticed no Manchester United player has worn their 2011/12 Home or Away shirts in long-sleeved. In fact, many onlookers are convinced that neither player issue versions were even put into production.  Instead, a short-sleeved shirt worn over a long-sleeved baselayer - despite any unwelcome comparisons with early 1990s grunge-influenced fashions - is now preferable to the long-sleeved shirt of yore.
 
Umbro and England did try to buck this trend, with mixed results. Their 2010-11 Away shirt was designed to combine the benefits of a long-sleeved shirt with those of a baselayer. Star man Wayne Rooney responded by debuting the short-sleeved version with a baselayer.
 
The baselayer shows no signs of having a shelf-life. If anything, its future seems to include development and progression.
 
The Irish company O'Neills have pioneered, it seems accidentally, the idea of having baselayers which match sleeves independently rather than simply reflecting the primary colour of the shirt or matching one sleeve of an asymmetrical outer layer. To date none of the Gaagle baselayers seems to perfectly suit the kit of their respective GAA counties, and players continue to wear white/black "model's own" versions regardless of their kits' colours, but we hope the penny will shortly drop.  Mismatching is not necessarily a bad thing - I regularly wear a red "baselayer" (size too small England 2006 Away shirt) with my Barcelona 2002 Away and have advocated the wearing of a sky blue baselayer with the current England Away - but there should always be the option to achieve brachial continuity.
 
Falling short on this front are Blackburn and Sunderland. Blackburn have one white sleeve and one blue but wear white baselayers; Sunderland have red and white sleeves with a black cuff but wear red baselayers. Both are inadequate and whilst with the latter I would argue that black should be used as a continuation of the cuff, a red and white striped example would appease the rulemakers who decree that baselayers should match the colour of the shirt (despite the fact that any player wearing short sleeves no longer has matching forearms to any teammate in long sleeves).
 
Every time I have seen Arsenal wearing their navy/light blue Away shirt this season I have crossed my fingers that a player would turn out in a sufficiently matching baselayer. Unfortunately, in contrast to United's eschewing of long-sleeved shirts, that is the version Arsenal have worn most regularly - by way of dictation from their captain - and have managed to avoid the unsatisfactory coupling of alternate-sleeved short-sleeved shirt with one colour baselayer.  
 
Is this partly because Nike are yet to provide baselayers produced specifically to match their teams' shirts? If so then we may be about to see progress on that front. Everton have signed a new contract with Nike which includes a bespoke Pro Combat range. It may be leap to suggest Everton will have one white sleeve on their Home shirt next season and a baselayer to match, but it may be a step in the right direction, meaning bizarre sights such as Paddy McCourt wearing a white turtleneck under a Hooped short-sleeved Celtic Home shirt could be a thing of the past.
 
Until then though, any creativity or concessions to the sartorial will have to be limited to what is available to the footballers.  And to us - for I dispute the exclamation, made in my direction whilst watching the Blackburn-Manchester United game with friends last night, that "fans don't wear baselayers!"  

There are options, as demonstrated by rebellious Hull City players wearing black instead of amber/yellow sleeves, Joe Hart carrying clashing - but somehow working - green versions of the enduring favourite, the cycling short, the overlooked practice of tape and outer supports entirely altering sock appearance and Mario Balotelli going with, naturally, skeleton gloves rather than, say, the fantastic examples from Under Armour currently being blacked out by the Spurs kitman keen to avoid enranging current supplier Puma.
 
It is Balotelli who so nearly hit the nail on the head when lifting his Manchester City shirt to display a retro shoddily printed message on his baselayer.  The real question we should ask is this:
 
"Why always plain?"
 

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At last, Team GB has its kit for the 2012 Olympic Games.  And, sure enough, it's controversial.

To many the launch of the football kit - which I'll focus on for the sake of brevity - comes as a surprise.  Not to me, not to Football Shirt Culture regulars and I'd guess not to many of the modest number that read this blog, but plenty assumed that the kit released last year, when the storm over the other 'Home' nations reluctance to release players for the tournament was at its peak, was the playing wear for the Games.  It was, in fact, absolutely shameless opportunism from various marketing entities - particularly demonstrated by the prococative use of Welshman Gareth Bale in publicity shots - but sadly plenty fell for it and didn't realise that its labelling of "Supporters Kit" meant that it would never feature on the pitch.  Part of me died inside every time I overheard someone in the street exclaim something along the lines of "I'm gonna get that Team GB kit!  It's well nice!"

It wasn't the Team GB kit, and it wasn't well nice.

It was cheap, tacky and dated.  Three things that could never be levelled at Stella McCartney's wonderful creation for adidas.  I speak as someone who has designed a relatively well-received Team GB shirt which featured on the talkSPORT website, but I bow down to Ms McCartney's disregard of templates, conformity and any clamour for a more literal representation of the Union Jack.

Because, as you may have heard, despite the main graphic on the shirt being a stylised version of the British flag, there is a lot of blue - various shades - and not as much red.  This means the crosses of St George and St Patrick are portrayed using alternate sections of the spectrum or, for some, entirely misrepresented.

And it works.  It works brilliantly and the elephant in the room is that the Union Jack - or Union Flag, to give it its proper name - could never have been used in its traditional form.  This is the first Olympics for decades that will feature a British football team and replica football shirt sales - for every nation - will dwarf anything that has gone before.  To join the dots for you, the right-wing morons that abandoned their devotion to England shirts when Umbro released the Hoxton-friendly "pink crosses" design after the South African World Cup fiasco have been after something to fill the void ever since.  They may not have plumped for a TECHFIT PowerWEB version but a Climacool red white and blue Great Britain shirt would have been just the ticket for an English Defence League march.

The Union Jack is crude.  Whatever debates people have over imperialist pasts the fact remains that in 2012 the Union Jack evokes images of the worst examples of nationalism veering into racism.  We may not have the public opinion to remove it as the national flag - certainly not when so many continue to bellow an equally offensive anthem - but in the hands of the fashion world's glitterati it was never going to be anything other than toned down, especially once McCartney's mind was made up that the angular structure would be the focal point of the shirt.  Therein lies the secret to its success.  Even if anyone still needs to satisfy their ereuthophilia, and can't wait for the likely all-red away kit, then combining the shirt with a Tyrone Gaagle baselayer from GAA specialists O'Neills would work a treat.  That'll stick it to 'em.

The alternative approach would have been to follow Umbro's lead in using the colour scheme but not the geometry, as featured in the quite open nod to the ikurrin displayed on everyone's latest favourite shirt, the Athletic Bilbao away.  Schitzophrenic Umbro are somewhat more coy about admitting any similarities between the Rangers away shirt and the Union Jack, which is surprising after they seemingly had no issue with putting their double diamond on an orange Linfield shirt,  

For me, McCartney rightly ignored the Umbro twist and instead used the tradition of the flag in such a brilliantly measured way - taking the right risks - that the shirt will be lauded in due course.  If the Daily Mail has a problem with it, compounded with its issues concerning naturalised and dual-nationality athletes taking prominent positions for Britain at the Games, then it merely acts as an endorsement of the delight which has met the launch.

 

Apologies to anyone who is offended by my timekeeping.  The navy England away shirt has been out for nearly a year and only now am I going to review it.  I do have excuses but they're wafer-thin so I'll get on with the business in hand.

As late as it is, it may actually be an ideal time to read about the pros and cons of the current England away shirt.  There's a tournament coming - generally the point at which there is a spike in shirt sales - and England, despite my claims that they would wear Nike and/or a red away at Euro 2012, will be packing this model for their journey to Eastern Europe.  So as I have a review example, probably the last one I'll receive, let's make the most of it.

First a little background.  The shirt was launched by way of British boxer David Haye carrying it on his back prior to being completely outclassed by Wladimir Klitschko in his world title unification bout.  Not an auspicious start from the marketing perspective and it got worse still when Haye blamed his defeat on a broken toe.  After the lauded Tom Meighan-assisted unveiling of the previous away shirt there was method in the madness, but it backfired spectacularly.

The Kasabian stunt was also more accurately reprised with the assistance of dance music act Chase & Status (me neither) but the damage was done.  The England shirt would have to do its talking on the pitch.

The tragedy is it needn't have been this way.  The latest concoction from the Tailored By conveyor belt actually had a back story, and probably the best yet.  Instead of relying on erring boxers and disc spinning hat wearers (is there no end to C&S's talents?), Umbro could possibly have made more of the fact that the colour scheme which, as would pass, so many baulked at, had origins in the traditional appearance cap given to every player turning out for the national side.  When I was later educated with this further information, David Haye and the apparent musical geniuses disappeared in a puff of smoke, to be replaced with comforting nostalgia.

And if we view the shirt from this perspective it fares well.  It's not red, but red has been done to death and, whilst I maintain that the brand new goalkeeper shirt may well have originally been designed as an away - and I'm not ruling out it being promoted to that (Chase-less) status by way of public opinion and Derren Brown-esque mind control from Umbro - it's actually a relief to not have to compare an England change shirt to one worn 46 years ago.  This shirt is unashamedly navy and it should be commended for its arrogance.

It's also unspectacular.  Like the first Tailored By home shirt in '09, it's simple and for all the history and fanfare surrounding its release the most positive attribute is its understatedness.  As a design piece it is measured and restrained.

From a tailoring perspective it may be the best yet.  The shape and cut stick to the principles of the '09 home but now the chest/shoulder stitching details are more flattering and pronounced.  As Umbro are always very keen to emphasise, this isn't a skin-tight shirt but more than ever before, sorry Kitbag, it is a shirt that must be tried on.  Get it in the right size and it will flatter most of us, get it in the wrong size and it will be unforgiving or, if worn oversized, will defeat the purpose and descend into pointless polo shirtery.

That last comparison is, like its 2009-2010 home equivalent, the shirt's biggest failing.  As a replica shirt it's not quite enough.  Wayne Rooney looks fantastic kicking opponents in it because he accessorises with UEFA patches, his number on his chest and match-specific scroll below the crest.  For the average fan these details will be missing and, even allowing for the now noticeably high profile Umbro logo, it needs something a little extra. Three years ago I suggested a pink t-shirt under the home shirt, now my fondness is with baselayers and I urge the sartorially discerning to use one in the collar's paler blue as a complement.  It wouldn't be allowed on the pitch but, for once, the fan has an advantage over the player.

So nice cut, nice collar - though why it has no top button in this age of Micky Flanagan's w*nker/a*sehole is beyond me - and it is the last, to date, England shirt with what we will call a proper crest.

Yes, another advantage of reviewing the away shirt so late on is that I can compare it to the more recent release(s).  For me it is an absolute tragedy that Umbro have elected to eschew the greatest thing that their Tailored By range brought to the table, an England crest perfectly coloured and embroidered in all its three-lioned and crown and 'England' legend-less glory.

As a quick contrast, the England away shirt is based on a bastion of tradition and features the definitive crest, whilst the new England home kit is white with three-tone red details, save for the crest which is in just the one shade, and a collar that pops to reveal more three-tone red details.  The new home kit also features white shorts and, due to its simplified crest, the shirt cannot even be paired with the enduring navy change away shorts, which may have been a popular concession to the wallet and history.  Instead we look forward to a change pair in red #3.  Oh joy.

All in all the England away shirt is a masterpiece for the inventive.  You may have to work to see it in its full glory but as a creation it avoids being run through by the double-edged sword of design for design's sake.

Being all things to all men is a tricky balancing act for Umbro - a recent request for ideas on the direction of future shirts on a popular kit design forum was met with comment #1 "...stop making the shirts too simple." swiftly followed by comment #2 "A simple plain white shirt." - but taking pride in inspiring the quite brilliant new Nike ranges such as the risky France designs is not adequate if your own latest offering implies your most pressing current concern is determining which episode of Nathan Barley you inhabit.

Congratulations, Umbro.  The Tailored By range has been a wonderful breath of fresh air which has revolutionised kit design and, although it doesn't shout it from the rooftops, the current away/third-shirt-in-waiting is one of its finest purveyors.  Let's just hope time doesn't reveal it to be the zenith before the shark was jumped.

 

 

England have a new kit. For the fifth time in three years the Three Lions are mounted on a brand, spanking new outfield design.

And this time they're red.

The totally unauthorised leak/bizarre left-field Umbro-managed launch of the home and "goalkeeper" kit (more of which later) by supposed twitter legend Joey Barton (and subsequent drip-feeding on the manufacturer's facebook page) shows the crest, as intricate as the last two incarnations, now dispenses with the spectrum of tradition and instead goes with a single coloured tonal approach. We've seen the limited edition tonal range of previous releases but this is a first - in the modern era at least - for the playing wear.

 
Aside from red badges and detailing to extremities the Home shirt is another plain white, classic design. I won't bore you with a review - you've seen it and I don't have a review example as yet. I'm far more interested in the shorts, socks and goalkeeper shirt anyway.  Let's just sum up by saying the new Home shirt has a neat collar that the pretty people can button to the top and the thugs can pop to reveal a red-striped underside (a la the Joules polos beloved by public schoolboys and their dapper drug dealers), and the crest that Umbro had perfected in '09 should not have been messed with.  Additionally, the last shirt (with multi-coloured crosses on the back) is available for under a tenner, even in long-sleeved. Seems decent value.
 
The real fun starts with everything else that has been released alongside the focal point. The stuff that, generally speaking, doesn't register on a tenth of as many radars. That is, unless it's red.
 
I've spoken in depth about the significance of a red away shirt for England and it surprised many when the last - perhaps due to being tainted in the South African World Cup of 2010 - was dispensed with after a year and replaced with a navy version based on the famous England cap.  This was, in fact, the first time England had worn a non-red change shirt in 14 years.
 
So when the rumours started circulating that new England kits were to be released for Euro 2012, a high proportion of the talk was focused on a red away shirt. In fact, as I was put in my place regarding my theory that Nike were about to confiscate the FA contract from their subsidiary, the preferred modus operandi was to inform DF that "[one was] a retailer and [one had] seen the new away shirt!"
 
"It's definitely Umbro and it's red!"
 
Now my misguided ranting about Nike pulling rank should tell you that my imagination is prone to running wild and I love a conspiracy theory, but I have to admit that I smelt a rat when the England goalkeeper shirt was unveiled and it was, well, you've guessed it wasn't green or yellow, right?
 
Several things just haven't added up. Perhaps the dust will settle and all will make sense but looking through the likes of Kitbag over the last few days, the silhouetted items available to pre-order included the home shirt (l/s and s/s), home shorts, change home shorts, home socks, change home socks, goalkeeper shirt (l/s and s/s), goalkeeper shorts, change goalkeeper shorts, goalkeeper socks and change goalkeeper socks.
 
Suddenly the goalkeeper shorts and socks (red) appear to be the home kit change shorts and socks and other items are disappearing.  In fact the Umbro website has the red shorts as "Goalkeeper Match Shorts" whereas their facebook page has them as "official Umbro change shorts".  Did someone not get a memo?
 
To nail my own colours to the mast, here's how I think it went down:
 
The original plan was for the home kit and a goalkeeper kit to be unveiled against Holland (so far so good), but when they were announced the media backlash was even more severe than the negative reaction Umbro and the FA had undoubtably legislated for - even Newsround had a pop about the previous shirt being worn for only eight games - and papers seized on the new one having an RRP of £55 (more for l/s).
 
Phase two would have seen the unveiling of the red away shirt against, erm, well there's no obvious fixture but just humour me; this was designed to have no accompanying shorts and socks and instead would have been worn with the home and home change versions, whichever was most appropriate.  Now with this, Umbro, you really would have been spoiling us as there's a whole kit afficionado community which clamours for interchangeability of shorts and socks between Home and change strips.  Finally, the navy/blue previous Away kit would have become a Third strip - the first in 19 years - in a similar fashion to the season-on-season cycle at Manchester United.
 
Sadly, phase two was abandoned. After the riots of last summer the FA had visions of a public already angered by the Home kit release being tipped over the edge by the notion of a SECOND kit that each and every child would also demand be purchased for them. Wembley would have been burned to the ground and British society would have descended into a horrific Mad Max style dystopia.
 
So no new Away kit. But revenue calculations had been made. Nike, Umbro and the FA had sat down and the figures were agreed. The red shirt made up a massive percentage of those projections and it couldn't be entirely abandoned.
 
But a yellow kit could. Some bright spark remarked that modern goalkeeper shirts are rarely even padded so carry no performance technology variations to an outfield equivalent. The likes of Olympique de Marseille's Steve Mandanda simply wear an alternative outfield strip to the rest of the team.
 
So the red away shirt became the red goalkeeper shirt - likely to become the best selling replica goalkeeper shirt of all time - the navy shirt was kept on as the Away and, sadly and infuriatingly, there's a goalkeeper kit in a cupboard at Umbro HQ which will probably never see the light of day, certainly not this year.
 
It's only a theory, and I've been very, very wrong before, (not to mention having a penchant for all-red goalkeeper kits) but ask yourself this: When has the style of a goalkeeper kit ever informed the secondary colouring of a brand new Home kit, and does England's new red top even look like a goalkeeper shirt?

Or does it look like a classic red England away shirt?

Over the last few days we've become aware of what the FC Barcelona shirts for 2012-13 will look like.  Despite the Spanish media having form in getting this oh so wrong it seems this time they've nailed it.

The designs for the new Barça kits will again prove controversial, with a home shirt looking like a PSG number minus that nauseating white and through short-sighted eyes, and an orange away (they never go without that for more than a year) gradually lightening lower down.  But, let's face it, they're called the Blaugrana but that doesn't mean they have to wear stripes. Halves and diagonal halves (ish) have been seen over recent years - nodding to early kits - and coupled with their random rotating of blue and red shorts they're almost Bayern Munich-like in their approach to home colours.

A greater controversy is surely the adoption of not one but two sponsors as of this season.  From a side which never wanted to distract attention from their famous colours whatsoever, they became the first side in the Champions League to carry an extra name on the lower back of their shirts - swiftly followed by the opportunistic Chelsea.  Yes, Unicef is a charitable organisation - as is, we're told, The Qatar Foundation, which now holds pride of place on the front - but both made it onto the shirt by way of commercial decision by the club, and a decision that has brought in both millions of euros and oodles of positive PR.

So yes, the club now puts sponsors on the shirt.  This is partly to finally bite the bullet and realise if they want to purchase Europe's best talent they will need to start offering real money, but generally speaking it'a just Barça catching up with a trend they should really be at the forefront of.  Still the question is begged, if the club is now so commercially savvy, why they make errors such as accompanying the section of their website that sells last season's away kit with images of Gerard Pique and Leo Messi wearing the mint green shirt in its 2011-12 third kit form with Qatar Foundation sponsor (not on sale) along with the player issue green change shorts (again, not on sale).

No, Barça are still relatively new to this money-making lark, which is why Nike are allowed so much freedom of expression in their kit designs.  Yes, the old cliché of it being difficult to do much with stripes (and hoops - though next season's 125th anniversary Celtic shirt should blow that theory out of the water) will be oft-quoted and given as an excuse to dispense with them altogether, albeit temporarily, but strip a club of its traditions and it becomes less marketable immediately and the directors at the Camp Nou should be mindful of this.

Granted, the most important thing is on-field success, which Barça have consistently, but even then the shirt design has had the potential to hinder this through manufacturing oversights.  If the shirt's literally weighing heavy perhaps it's worth considering this to be an unsubtle message that a little too much is going on and, regarding sponsors, has been added on to one of the most iconic football kits of all time.

Here are my key moments in football design from the year that was.

  • Boro Futsal, finally, wore the shirt which Morgan O'Brien designed to win the DF competition back in '09.  It may seem a strange choice as top highlight of 2011 but it means that DF's influence on the football world continues to grow.
  • Much more exciting, for me personally at least, was Steevo's Liverpool away shirt getting (mass-?)produced in the Far East and appearing on eBay, then every football news website which pilfers from Football Shirt Culture and even featuring in the infamous video of the Manchester United fan in with Liverpool supporters during the Merseyside club's tour of Asia (blink and you'll miss it).
  • 2011 also belonged to Portman Kunis United.  The Dallas indoor team have, to date, given us four shirts - plus t-shirts - of almost unparalleled beauty in the amateur game.  They're now almost as famous as Natalie and Mila.
  • The three very different instances above both show that amateur kit design, when done well, can infiltrate the mainstream.  2011 even saw both Augsberg and, of greater note, Olympique de Marseille, offering up the opportunity for fans to design a change kit.  We've actually progressed much further and quicker than I predicted.
  • But then, occasionally, it can be done very poorly.  No amateur designers to blame here, just a marketing campaign from Puma offering Tottenham Hotspur fans the opportunity to "Guess The Kit".  Nice idea, only the final design, albeit classy, was devoid of very much detail - the leaked images didn't even have a sponsor!  Congratulations to the entrant who went for a collar and two badges.
  • 2011 was also The Year of The Bottler.  No, I'm not referring to plastic bottles going into the production of Nike shirts (very good.  You're part of the solution rather than the problem we're sure) but instead their choice of Monaco-style halves for Barça - but really stripes still unless you look really, really closely - adidas's well-publicised but barely noticeable sash on the new Spain shirt and, most annoyingly, Puma copping out of putting 'painted' stripes on the Newcastle shirt for a second successive season - despite triumphs elsewhere.  In fairness, this season's shirt is actually quite brave and they still haven't put a black cat on a single item.  Good going.
  • Speaking of which, the new Scotland home kit from adidas was sublime.  A complete bolt from the blue, apparently a Scot holds a high position at the company...
  • Boots rarely get me going but the Umbro GT Pro II is a thing of wonder.  Superfly shmooperfly.
  • Finally, who could forget the moment that FSC was brought to its knees with a vicious hack-attack (if you'll excuse the terminology) just after featuring a leak of Nike's Manchester United kits for the 2012-13 season.  Obviously someone very skilled, or someone who can pay lots of money to someone very skilled, wasn't too happy about the cat being let out of the bag.  FSC, fortunately, lived to see another day.
And to look forward to in 2012...

 

  • The mainstream press went loopy over it in '11 but this year we're due to be treated to the Under Armour Tottenham kit with inbuilt performance sensors.  The juxtaposition of technology offering in-game player analysis accuracy the like of which we've never seen before and a football manager that will greet this information with the word "triffic" will sadly be denied due to Harry Redknapp either serving the country as England manager or perhaps time at Her Majesty's pleasure.
  • Another long-awaited release from an American supplier is the Warrior Liverpool kit.  Plenty of people think they know what it will look like but all will be revealed soon.  adidas, your stripes will be missed.
  • Euro 2012 will bring a whole host of new designs, several of which we've seen already - from adidas - but the big question may be whether or not Nike have had enough of allowing Umbro to continue with the England contract.  The Tailored By releases have been lauded by the purists (the current goalkeeper kit is spectacular), but have they sold?  Each and every shirt seems to be available at knockdown prices relatively soon after the increasingly frequent launches and lest we forget that France released shirts at a similar rate prior to the FFF leaving adidas for Nike.  Perhaps it's sacrosanct and The FA will keep the white shirt English.  We'll see...
  • Whatever designs are finally settled upon, we know know fans and amateur designers have a bigger say than ever before and may that continue into 2012.  DesignFootball.com and associated communities led by FSC will do our bit so to get involved in competitions and keep up to date with everything that's happening remember to Like FSC and DF on facebook and follow FSC, ViralFootball and DF on twitter.
  • Oh yeah, and Man United fans, you can look forward to tartan home and away (blue) shirts to commemorate Scotsman Sir Alex Ferguson's 25 years in charge.  Because for as long as leaks happen Football Shirt Culture will remain the best place to find them.

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